Up at 05:30 for a chance to see the sunrise over Angkor Wat and, as it happens, so were hundreds of others. We crossed the causeway and entered the grounds in total darkness, save for the flickering of tiny torches. There was almost a religious feel as the congregation vied for the best spots around the water to witness the rising of the sun and to record the mysterious event on their Nikons and Canons. Unfortunately the sun refused to play ball and stayed in bed; it got light okay but it was another half an hour before the sun made an appearance, by which time the disappointed faithful were heading back home for breakfast.
Banteay Srey was our next stop an hour's drive from Siem Reap. It's a small Hindu temple built from a pinkish stone covered in exquisite carvings. On the way back a short stop at the Land Mine Museum was a sobering experience showing one ex-child soldier's efforts to undo the damage done by successive wars.
Another temple (Pre Rup) got a quick visit before we stopped for lunch. Khmer Amok served in young coconut shells.
In the afternoon we headed out to Tonle Sap, the largest freshwater lake in SE Asia, but, being the dry season, it was a long drive to find it along a dusty, bumpy track to the first navigable point where we swapped transport to a boat piloted by a 15 year old captain and his assistant who must have been all of 10. The narrow waterway down to the lake took us past fishermen (one with a fag in his mouth despite being up to his neck in water), kids playing (and working), and houses towering above the water on bamboo stilts with gardens, ducks and chickens underneath in the village of Kampong Phluk.
The kids very cleverly managed the boat in the sometimes very narrow waterways, colliding with other vessels never a problem if you have a long pole and quick hands and feet to push them off. No one seemed to mind, we were greeted with smiles and waves along the way and a wonderful opportunity to see how the local fishing families make their living.
Grilled rice and bananas from a stall on the way home before tuk tukking out again for a final group meal in Pub Street. So ends our day in Siem Reap, tomorrow we head for Phnom Penh.










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